Since the age of about 12 I have known that one day I would paddle to Alaska. 16 years later I finally embarked on that journey, a journey that has evolved over the 16 years as I gained perspective and experience, leading me to my paddling partner, trip plan and destination. At the age of 12 Alaska was likely the farthest conceivable destination and required no quantification as to how far in Alaska I intended to go. It was simply Alaska! For the 12 year old in me... we have spent the past 2 months kayaking to 'Alaska' and on June 29th we crossed the watery line that separates Canada and the US. We spent our first night illegally landed in the US and the next week until reaching Ketchikan where we officially checked in with customs and declared that we were in fact in Alaska.
Our journey through Canada was one of space and freedom. It was a journey of discovery as we saw for the first time our coast... I didn't know such expanse existed, I didn't know there were miles of white sand beaches and I didn't know I could feel so completely alone. Alone, but alive, content and at peace. We had the ultimate privilege of traveling by kayak up the outside coast. A wild and rugged coastline exposed to the open seas and the lashings of the Hecate Strait, a coastline that has claimed the lives of many. The ocean embraced us, the weather smiled on us and we were spared the terror. We drifted up and down the huge swells, bounced amongst the refracting waves and cut through the glassy surface of the early morning calm. We traveled miles of harsh coastline, completely un-landable. We paralleled black jagged rocks, frothing with crashing waves, spray shooting 10's of feet in the air with the shear force and power in which it was slammed against the rocks. We navigated through boomers, rocks that sit just below the waters surface creating huge dumping waves as the swell traveled landward. We felt the force, saw the potential and thanked the surfless beaches that provided refuge. It was more than a dream.
Prince Rupert marked the completion of our journey through Canada, it marked a halfway point and it marked the embarkation of the Alaskan portion of our journey. We are two months in... this is Alaska... and our dream is becoming a reality.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Catch us if you can in Ketchikan-Angela
July 2nd found us paddling late into the evening, scrambling for a campsite just outside of Ketchikan Alaska. We found a make shift campsite and sat down to watch the lights of ketchikan fade into the night.
The next day dawned bright and early as we paddled past beach front houses, marinas and cruise ships to find the five story pink customs office in town. The officer, as ever intrigued with two females paddling for four months, quickly filled out our paper work, then listened with awe to our stories and wished us luck in the coming months.
Ketchikan-a mix of old and new. Old canaries line one section of the main street, while cruise ships and modern shops adorn the next section. A cruise down "Creek Street" revealed the red light district as it would have been decades ago with splashes of modern art stores, funky bookstores, and heritage homes.
With two to four huge cruise ships in port during the day, the town is filled with interesting questions, a multitude of language and useless shopping. But when the ships leave in the evening, the locals come out of hiding and do it up ketchikan style. We spent an evening in a coffee shop listening to local musicians playing late into the night. Upon hearing that we were sea kayakers on a long journey, they took us in as one of their own and dragged us on stage for music, offered us smoked salmon, and sent us a coast guard representative to tell us tales of the sea! What a night it was with the comfort of a mocha and good company.
July 4 (Independance Day) dawned with excitement and anticipation. The longest parade I have ever seen took place as Christine and I, with childlike enthusiasm, shared a stick of cotton candy! We were given free pie from Maggie, ate free root beer floats as we watched the duck race unfold before our very eyes. Four Thousand rubber duckies were let loose at the top of a small creek. Each duck was worth $10, and the first duck at the bottom of the creek won $2500 with cash prices for the first 35 ducks. Christine and I did not win, but thoroughly enjoyed the ducky race.
We were then dragged to the logger sports competition where we watched six strong logger lads compete for the winning two spots that would ensure their spot in the ESPN Logger Competition. We were soon the loudest fans as we cheered the men up 50 ft trees, over floating logs, sawing through thick stumps, and generally competeing for the highest level of testosterone. Impressive feats to be sure, but I don't think any of them could paddle to Alaska.
Once all traces of light from the Alaskan sun vanished, crowds gathered along the docks and marinas to watch as a very impressive fireworks display ended the celebrations. Christine and I fell into our hostel beds exhausted but happy after an amazing day of friends and fun.
The next day dawned bright and early as we paddled past beach front houses, marinas and cruise ships to find the five story pink customs office in town. The officer, as ever intrigued with two females paddling for four months, quickly filled out our paper work, then listened with awe to our stories and wished us luck in the coming months.
Ketchikan-a mix of old and new. Old canaries line one section of the main street, while cruise ships and modern shops adorn the next section. A cruise down "Creek Street" revealed the red light district as it would have been decades ago with splashes of modern art stores, funky bookstores, and heritage homes.
With two to four huge cruise ships in port during the day, the town is filled with interesting questions, a multitude of language and useless shopping. But when the ships leave in the evening, the locals come out of hiding and do it up ketchikan style. We spent an evening in a coffee shop listening to local musicians playing late into the night. Upon hearing that we were sea kayakers on a long journey, they took us in as one of their own and dragged us on stage for music, offered us smoked salmon, and sent us a coast guard representative to tell us tales of the sea! What a night it was with the comfort of a mocha and good company.
July 4 (Independance Day) dawned with excitement and anticipation. The longest parade I have ever seen took place as Christine and I, with childlike enthusiasm, shared a stick of cotton candy! We were given free pie from Maggie, ate free root beer floats as we watched the duck race unfold before our very eyes. Four Thousand rubber duckies were let loose at the top of a small creek. Each duck was worth $10, and the first duck at the bottom of the creek won $2500 with cash prices for the first 35 ducks. Christine and I did not win, but thoroughly enjoyed the ducky race.
We were then dragged to the logger sports competition where we watched six strong logger lads compete for the winning two spots that would ensure their spot in the ESPN Logger Competition. We were soon the loudest fans as we cheered the men up 50 ft trees, over floating logs, sawing through thick stumps, and generally competeing for the highest level of testosterone. Impressive feats to be sure, but I don't think any of them could paddle to Alaska.
Once all traces of light from the Alaskan sun vanished, crowds gathered along the docks and marinas to watch as a very impressive fireworks display ended the celebrations. Christine and I fell into our hostel beds exhausted but happy after an amazing day of friends and fun.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Summary of Learning - Part 2
- After a month at sea, what we look forward to the MOST are a few comments on our blog.... hint hint...
- On a 1:80,000 chart 'green' means:
- Passable at low tide
- Not passable at low tide
- Beautiful sandy beach
- Jagged scary giant rocks
- Shallow but open coastline
- Cluttered with thousands of islands
- Angela needs a pee buddy
- When you can't find a campsite - look around the corner...
- Check what time it is before going to bed... 6:45pm might be a little early
- Don't be fooled by the 'Kayaker's Mirage' its not a sandy beach, its driftwood (and jagged rocks)
- Mini Disc Players float! - and then make sounds as if dieing slowly...
- If you think it is raining - first check to see if Angela is paddling near by...
- Not everyone thinks it is normal to walk around town in a drysuit
- It is hard to hide in a giant yellow suit
- You can eat a mars bar a day and still lose weight!
- Sometimes the highest point of land still isn't quite high enough...
- If you can land the boats... you can call it home
- 100 ft of line might be a little deep...
- When the meat eater calls for help from the vegetarian... you know it is a big fish...
Various Pictures - Christine
The longest day... paddled until the sun set.
Dragging our boats over the kelp - BIG tidal changes right now!
They go on forever!
The meat eater redeems herself
That fits in our boats?
Our kingdomOde to the People We've Met! - Christine
We cannot carry on without mentioning those that have helped us get this far! We don't see a lot of people and our interactions are limited at best (probably a little strange through the eyes of others!). But some how we have been blessed, it seems there is always an extended hand and a heart of gold awaiting us.
We haven't figured out yet if we just look like a couple of nice girls... or if we come across as needing all the help we can get... but either way... grin. The far stretches of people's generosity has been bestowed upon us.
Two days after all our fresh fruit and veg was gone... just over a week since Port McNeil, we met 'Fred and Connie' (we have been sworn to secrecy and cannot reveal their real names), two lovely caretakers at a remote fishing lodge. We came looking for water and left with apples, oranges, kiwis, orange juice, a coke (for Angela), potatoes, onions.... oh, and water. Feeling like we had just been adopted and completely taken care of we happily trotted back to camp with our loot like five year-olds on Halloween. Later that night we were invited back and we again met open arms... were drawn into a heated house (how strange!), given more juice, and had a wonderful evening chatting together... We of course didn't leave empty handed... they were sure to fill our pockets with chocolates...
A long day out of Bella Bella, fighting the wind a current, but determined to visit our first lighthouse we arrived on Ivory Island at about 7pm... we hadn't had dinner and we would still have to find somewhere to camp but we filled our pockets with snacks and then walked across the island on the old condemned boardwalk to visit the light house keepers. Greeted by Lise and her husband we were immediately offered juice, which turned into the use of a spare building to watch TV (weird!), have showers, and were even given an entire Casserole to eat all ourselves!!! which we did eat... almost all of, ourselves! On their suggestion we camped back where our boats were... sleeping on the condemned boardwalk, full, warm, clean and happy!
A couple of days before Prince Rupert, almost 2 weeks since our last town we paddled into a sleepy little village on a Sunday... seeming deserted our hopes of chocolate and apples were starting to disintegrate... and then we met Vanessa... Sticking out like sore thumbs (as usual we were wondering around in our bright yellow dry suits) Vanessa was smiling before we even approached her to ask if there was any chance of a store. Learning that we were looking for chocolate she said 'come with me, I will feed you'. Perhaps it is the kindergarten teacher in her... but she thought of our ever need and provided! First she gave us chocolate chip cookies... which we promptly ate (it was only 10:30am). Then she opened up the computer lab so we could check email and make phone calls and when we were finished that... she took us home, made us tea, served us FRESH PINEAPPLE!, offered us showers, and then sent us on our way with apples, oranges and chocolate covered raisins! Feeling like we were leaving a long time friend we hugged her goodbye and again... trotted back to our kayaks feeling like five year olds on Halloween.
But the generosity did not end there... on the Docks we met Chad, a fellow sea going lad that has been traveling up the coast from Seattle in an old converted fishing boat. Chad just happened to have too much salmon... which we assured him we could help him with. First he produced a huge fillet that he had just cooked on his grill... we promptly ate it... all... to everyones disbelief... seeing that get devoured he went back and got another huge fillet, raw for us to take for dinner...
It seems like every where we go we meet people that are compelled to help us, be it problem solving, letting us use school computer labs (the school in Bella Bella also let us use their computers!), searching for needed supplies, giving us discounts, offering us lifts, simply providing.
Not surprisingly the key to our eternal love is food and chocolate... Oh, and internet!
THANK YOU!
We haven't figured out yet if we just look like a couple of nice girls... or if we come across as needing all the help we can get... but either way... grin. The far stretches of people's generosity has been bestowed upon us.
Two days after all our fresh fruit and veg was gone... just over a week since Port McNeil, we met 'Fred and Connie' (we have been sworn to secrecy and cannot reveal their real names), two lovely caretakers at a remote fishing lodge. We came looking for water and left with apples, oranges, kiwis, orange juice, a coke (for Angela), potatoes, onions.... oh, and water. Feeling like we had just been adopted and completely taken care of we happily trotted back to camp with our loot like five year-olds on Halloween. Later that night we were invited back and we again met open arms... were drawn into a heated house (how strange!), given more juice, and had a wonderful evening chatting together... We of course didn't leave empty handed... they were sure to fill our pockets with chocolates...
A long day out of Bella Bella, fighting the wind a current, but determined to visit our first lighthouse we arrived on Ivory Island at about 7pm... we hadn't had dinner and we would still have to find somewhere to camp but we filled our pockets with snacks and then walked across the island on the old condemned boardwalk to visit the light house keepers. Greeted by Lise and her husband we were immediately offered juice, which turned into the use of a spare building to watch TV (weird!), have showers, and were even given an entire Casserole to eat all ourselves!!! which we did eat... almost all of, ourselves! On their suggestion we camped back where our boats were... sleeping on the condemned boardwalk, full, warm, clean and happy!
A couple of days before Prince Rupert, almost 2 weeks since our last town we paddled into a sleepy little village on a Sunday... seeming deserted our hopes of chocolate and apples were starting to disintegrate... and then we met Vanessa... Sticking out like sore thumbs (as usual we were wondering around in our bright yellow dry suits) Vanessa was smiling before we even approached her to ask if there was any chance of a store. Learning that we were looking for chocolate she said 'come with me, I will feed you'. Perhaps it is the kindergarten teacher in her... but she thought of our ever need and provided! First she gave us chocolate chip cookies... which we promptly ate (it was only 10:30am). Then she opened up the computer lab so we could check email and make phone calls and when we were finished that... she took us home, made us tea, served us FRESH PINEAPPLE!, offered us showers, and then sent us on our way with apples, oranges and chocolate covered raisins! Feeling like we were leaving a long time friend we hugged her goodbye and again... trotted back to our kayaks feeling like five year olds on Halloween.
But the generosity did not end there... on the Docks we met Chad, a fellow sea going lad that has been traveling up the coast from Seattle in an old converted fishing boat. Chad just happened to have too much salmon... which we assured him we could help him with. First he produced a huge fillet that he had just cooked on his grill... we promptly ate it... all... to everyones disbelief... seeing that get devoured he went back and got another huge fillet, raw for us to take for dinner...
It seems like every where we go we meet people that are compelled to help us, be it problem solving, letting us use school computer labs (the school in Bella Bella also let us use their computers!), searching for needed supplies, giving us discounts, offering us lifts, simply providing.
Not surprisingly the key to our eternal love is food and chocolate... Oh, and internet!
THANK YOU!
Various Pictures - Angela
Thank you to Fred and Connie on Calvert Island for the treat!
West Coast action!
Hmmm, crab feast.
Sunrise somewhere on the northern tip of Vancouver Island
Dilemma - Christine
I have had this on going dilemma for the past several years. Wanting to advance in the technical world... take the next step in the future of portable music... join the iPod generation... but there is the dilemma of mine... I still had a mini disc player that worked. I know many of you are going... 'a what player?' so I will say it again... a mini disc player.
I was given an iPod once and I even went so far as to return it because I just couldn't justify casting aside a perfectly good piece of equipment on the basis that I just desired something newer and fancier...
So I have been carrying around this mini disc player and all of it's many mini discs for years now. It has been from Africa to Antarctica and the many places in between... It just keeps on working.
My mini disc player and I have watched the progression of iPods... getting bigger yet smaller, changing colour and shape and now we have seen the introduction of the iTouch... talk about desire. My mini disc player almost lost me with that one... I came close to faultering... even had it in my hands... so close, but then practicality set in, I remembered my trusty mini disc player that... still worked.
I solved my dilemma!
In case anyone is wondering... mini disc players float...
Trouble is, an iPod is only desirable when there is music on it... so perhaps I should have taken a little longer to solve my dilemma... say... another 2 and a half months...
At the risk of starting the cycle of my dilemmas all over again... anyone have a mini disc player I can borrow/buy/steal? Mine was so trusty I never got around to transferring data from the mini discs to my computer...
Technology stumps me again!
I was given an iPod once and I even went so far as to return it because I just couldn't justify casting aside a perfectly good piece of equipment on the basis that I just desired something newer and fancier...
So I have been carrying around this mini disc player and all of it's many mini discs for years now. It has been from Africa to Antarctica and the many places in between... It just keeps on working.
My mini disc player and I have watched the progression of iPods... getting bigger yet smaller, changing colour and shape and now we have seen the introduction of the iTouch... talk about desire. My mini disc player almost lost me with that one... I came close to faultering... even had it in my hands... so close, but then practicality set in, I remembered my trusty mini disc player that... still worked.
I solved my dilemma!
In case anyone is wondering... mini disc players float...
Trouble is, an iPod is only desirable when there is music on it... so perhaps I should have taken a little longer to solve my dilemma... say... another 2 and a half months...
At the risk of starting the cycle of my dilemmas all over again... anyone have a mini disc player I can borrow/buy/steal? Mine was so trusty I never got around to transferring data from the mini discs to my computer...
Technology stumps me again!
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